雞公艾爾
雞公艾爾(英語:cock ale)是一種在17至18世紀流行於英國的艾爾啤酒,要製作這種啤酒,需要將裝滿了去皮去肚的半熟公雞及各種水果香料的袋子,浸泡入普通艾爾啤酒的釀酒桶中。
配方
[編輯]《牛津英語詞典》將「Cock ale」描述為「除其餘成分外,還與煮熟的公雞肉凍或肉糜混合的艾爾啤酒」,[1]並將該飲品追溯至17世紀中期。在凱內爾姆·迪格比的《櫥櫃揭秘》(Closet Opened,1669年)一書中,將其製作過程介紹為:
取八加侖艾爾酒;取一隻公雞煮熟;然後取四磅去核自然風乾的葡萄乾、兩三個肉豆蔻、三四片肉豆蔻皮、半磅海棗;用臼舂碎,再取兩夸脫最好的白葡萄酒;放入釀造好的艾爾酒中,將其封存六七天後裝瓶,一月後即可飲用。[2]
1739年的《完美家庭主婦》介紹了相似的配方:
取十加侖艾爾酒和一隻大公雞,越老越好;把公雞煮熟,去皮,在石臼搗至骨碎(去皮時應一併去除內臟);然後將公雞放進兩夸脫的麻袋裡,放入三磅曬乾的葡萄乾、一些肉豆蔻皮和少許丁香。將之裝入帆布袋中。在艾爾酒即將釀造完成時,把艾爾酒和袋子一併裝入容器中;等上一周至九天後灌裝入瓶;讓酒剛好沒過瓶頸,並按其他艾爾酒的時長等待熟成。[3]
托馬斯·富勒的《即興藥典》(Pharmacopœia extemporanea,1710年)里提供了肺癆艾爾(Pectoral Ale,咳嗽藥)的配方,如果加上煮熟的雞,顯然可以變成雞公艾爾。富勒解釋說,這種飲料「能使血液和體液中的酸性物質變甜,激活粘稠的痰液,促進排痰,煥發肺部活力,提供溫和的營養,對於治療惡化前的肺癆也非常有益。」[4]約翰·諾特(John Nott)的《廚師和糖果師詞典》(Cooks and Confectioner's Dictionary,1723年)中也宣傳了這種飲料的所謂藥用價值,該詞典聲稱雞公艾爾「對肺癆有好處,並有化腐為奇之效」。[5]
描述
[編輯]一位當代傳記作者聲稱,威廉三世國王更喜歡雞公艾爾而不是葡萄酒。[6]在羅伯特·納雷斯的《詞彙表》(Glossary)中,這種飲料被描述為「一種在17世紀因其卓越品質而非常有名的艾爾酒」[7]。該詞條還引用了奈德·沃德在《倫敦間諜》中的一段話,其中稱雞公艾爾是「小啤酒和糖漿的混合物」,不過作者還補充說,「我說,如果這是雞公艾爾,那就讓雞頭喝吧。」[8]內森·貝利(Nathan Bailey)的《大英詞典》(Dictionarium britannicum,1736年)將其描述為一種「令人愉快的飲料,據說具有挑逗性」,[9]弗朗西斯·格羅斯的《俗語經典詞典》(Classical Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue,1785年)也反映了這種觀點,稱其具有挑逗性。[10]威廉·亨利·紐金特(William Henry Nugent)在1929年時聲稱,雞公艾爾是麵包和艾爾酒的混合物,是鬥雞的食物。[11]
有幾位作者推斷,「Cock ale」可能已經訛變為了「cocktail」(雞尾酒),這是一個在1806年首次使用的美國詞,其來源現已失傳。[12][13][14]
參考文獻
[編輯]- 腳註
- ^ cock-ale, n. Second, oed.com, June 2011 [1891]
- ^ Digby 2007,第99頁 原文:Take eight Gallons of Ale; take a Cock and boil him well; then take four pounds of Raisins of the Sun well stoned, two or three Nutmegs, three or four flakes of Mace, half a pound of Dates; beat these all in a Mortar, and put to them two quarts of the best Sack; and when the Ale hath done working, put these in, and stop it close six or seven days, and then bottle it, and a month after you may drink it.
- ^ Smith 1739,第222–223頁 原文:Take ten gallons of ale, and a large cock, the older the better; parboil the cock, flay him, and stamp him in a stone mortar till his bones are broken (you must craw and gut him when you flay him); then put the cock into two quarts of sack, and put it to three pounds of raisins of the sun stoned, some blades of mace, and a few cloves; put all these into a canvas bag, and a little before you find the ale has done working, put the ale and bag together into a vessel; in a week or nine days time bottle it up; fill the bottle but just above the neck, and give the same time to ripen as other ale.
- ^ Pectoral Ale, pascalbonenfant.com, [2011-06-18], (原始內容存檔於2011-10-07),
sweetens the Acrimony of the blood and humours, incites clammy phlegm, facilitates expectoration, invigorates the lungs, supplies soft nourishment, and is very profitable even in a consumption itself, if not too far gone.
- ^ Nott 1723 原文:good against a Consumption, and to restore a decay'd Nature.
- ^ Anon 1703
- ^ 原文:a sort of ale which was very celebrated in the seventeenth century for its superior quality.
- ^ Nares 1859 原文:if this be cock-ale, said I, e'en let cocks-combs drink it.
- ^ Bailey 1736
- ^ Grose 1785
- ^ Nugent 1929
- ^ cocktail, n. and adj. Third, oed.com, June 2011 [2005] [2021-09-01], (原始內容存檔於2022-03-19)
- ^ Chrysti 2004
- ^ Powers 1998
- 傳記
- Anon, The Life of William III, Fleet Street, London: S and J Sprint, J Nicholson, 1703 [2021-09-01], (原始內容存檔於2021-09-01)
- Bailey, Nathan, Dictionarium Britannicum, Royal Exchange, London: T Cox, 1736 [2021-09-01], (原始內容存檔於2021-09-15)
- Chrysti, Verbivore's feast: a banquet of word & phrase origins, Helena, MT: Farcountry Press, 2004 [2021-09-01], ISBN 1-56037-265-6, (原始內容存檔於2020-08-05)
- Digby, Kenelm, The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Knight Opened, Middlesex: Echo Library, 2007, ISBN 978-1-4068-6120-4
- Grose, Francis, A Classical Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue, High Holborn, London: S Hooper, 1785 [2021-09-01], (原始內容存檔於2013-06-04)
- Nares, Robert, A glossary, London: J R Smith, 1859 [2021-09-01], (原始內容存檔於2021-11-25)
- Nott, John, The Cooks and Confectioner's Dictionary, St Pauls, London: C Rivington, 1723 [2021-09-01], (原始內容存檔於2021-09-01)
- Nugent, William Henry, Cock Fighting Today, The American mercury 17 (American Mercury), 1929, 17
- Powers, Madelon, Faces along the bar: lore and order in the workingman's saloon, 1870-1920, Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1998 [2021-09-01], ISBN 0-226-67768-0, (原始內容存檔於2019-12-23)
- Smith, Eliza, The compleat housewife, Fleet Street, London: J and J Pemberton, 1739 [2021-09-01], (原始內容存檔於2022-06-28)